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I have often felt that travel writers seem selfish, and now I understand a little more about why. The three people who are going to find this account the most selfish are unfortunately the same three people who made it possible, and the three people who I wrote it for, and to whom I dedicate it. If they learned half as much as I did, they still learned a lot. If they learn anything from this account, (or better still, if they get any pleasure from it), then it was worth every second I spent preparing it. I will also have done something towards redressing the balance of what I owe them for making the trip possible, and for making it a success. To Alfie and Martha Eisenberg and to Claudia Boeker. For their patience, hard work, support, insight, and courage. In short, for "being there".


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